Skin Care || Combatting Dry Skin This Winter

There is no need to go shopping for new moisturizers and cleansers.  Here are four quick tips for combatting dry skin this winter.

1. Honey and brown sugar cleanser.
Maybe the facial cleanser that worked so well for you in the summer feels drying this fall and upcoming winter?  Well, try using a mixture of honey and brown sugar to cleanse your face instead.  Pure honey is a natural humectant with antibacterial properties [1].  Brown sugar aids with exfoliation due to its texture.  This combination will not feel as stripping as your cleanser

2. Add jojoba oil (or grapeseed or safflower) to a moisturizer.
Maybe your current facial moisturizer isn't cutting it for the cold weather?  Try adding jojoba oil or using it a substitute.  This oil is light enough to not leave a greasy layer and feel on your skin but it can get the job done in terms of moisture retention.  Another option is to add grapeseed oil[2] or safflower oil, which are also fairly light and moisture retentive.  NOTE: Safflower oil will not clog the pores while jojoba oil and grapeseed oil are moderately low when it comes to clogging[3].

3. Whipped shea-aloe body butter in place of your lotion.
Is your skin still dry or even ashy after using lotion?  Then try mixing your own body butter for the cold weather.  A simple mixture can consist of 50% aloe vera gel and 50% shea butter.  Aloe vera is great for replenishing moisture to the skin while shea butter softens and seals in the moisture.  If you want something a little heavier, add one or more of your favorites oils (about 10-20% of the final mixture).

4. Glycerin may be useful - 30:70 glycerin-water spritz.
There is a big misconception that glycerin is counter-effective (by sucking moisture away from your skin/hair) in cold weather.  (For more on the science behind glycerin, check out this post on "The Natural Haven").  Glycerin is just simply more useful in the presence of water, which could be why it is more effective in humid weather for many individuals.  (If it does not work well for you during cold weather, it is not because it is "sucking moisture away" from your skin/hair.  It could be that it is just not as effective due to the drier weather.)  
If you are not a fan of whipped butters on your body, then try making a mixture of 30% glycerin and 70% water and spritzing it your body.  (Feel free to adjust the ratio to your desired consistency.)  Follow up with your current body lotion, if necessary.  This spritz can also be applied to your face; follow up with your current moisturizer, if necessary.

MORE READS:
HONEY AS AN ANTIBIOTIC
GRAPESEED OIL & MOISTURE LOSS
COMEDOGENIC (CLOGGING) RATINGS
THE SCIENCE BEHIND GLYCERIN - THE NATURAL HAVEN
10 WINTER SKIN CARE TIPS

Mixology || Shea Butter and Hibiscus Deep Treatment

Recipe originator: Laila (FusionofCultures on Youtube).

Ingredients (rough estimates):
2 scoops conditioner (from your stash)
2 scoops shea butter
1 tbsp honey
1 tbsp peppermint oil
1 tbsp castor oil
1 tbsp of amla
1 tbsp of hibiscus powder

Instructions: See video below ...

 

Protective Style Lookbook || 6 Styles for Small or Mini Twists

By popular demand, this is a series showcasing various protective hair styles.  Protective styling does not have to be boring. :o)

Model: MsTanish

Style description: High bun, beaded updos, mini twist headband, bantu knotout, etc.  (The latter styles are towards the end of the below video.)

Difficulty level: 2/5

Underrated || Lanolin or Lanolin Oil for Hair

Disclaimer: Lanolin is not recommended for use by those who have wool allergies.

Lanolin is a natural, waxy substance extracted from the wool of sheep (and, in rare cases, other wool-bearing animals).  Unfortunately, it has been labeled a "bad" ingredient in certain hair care communities, possibly because it is a barrier to water.  However, outside of this reality, lanolin can be very useful in other arenas of hair care.  If you don't know much about it, you might want to continue reading ...


WHY LANOLIN IS WORTH TRYING:

1.  It seals in moisture.  Lanolin, secreted by the sebaceous glands of sheep in order to protect the skin and wool from the harsh environment.  It would then not seem unreasonable that lanolin would work well as an effective sealant on our own hair.  Though this waxy, thick substance locks out moisture (i.e., preventing water from penetrating the hair) it also locks in moisture (i.e., retains water that is already present in the hair strand).  NOTE: If you have fine strands, lanolin may feel too heavy; try the oil form (of lanolin) instead.

2. It has conditioning properties.  Lanolin can be very lubricating.  

3. It can aid in styling.  Due to the waxy consistency of lanolin, it can help to define twist outs, braid outs, and roller sets.  It can also help to smooth down any frizzies or stray hairs and add shine (or sheen).

HOW TO USE LANOLIN:

1. Use it to seal your ends.  Depending on your hair texture and density, lanolin may or may not be too heavy for use.  If it is too heavy, try using it sparingly or opting for lanolin oil instead.

2. Use as a pre-shampoo treatment or to enhance a conditioner.  Use lanolin (or lanolin oil) alone or with other ingredients as a pre-poo treatment.  Add some melted lanolin (or add lanolin oil) to your conditioner for an enhanced conditioning treatment.

3. Use it to make a styling pomade or grease.  Lanolin can be used alone or mixed with butters and/or oils to create a pomade or grease.  Check out this previous post on a hair grease recipe using lanolin.  (The recipe creator is Lola Zabeth.)

4. Use it as an anti-humidity agent.  Because lanolin can act as a barrier between your hair and the environment, it can work well to protect your styles from being ruined by humidity.  

Hair Diary || The Many Facets of Natural

I was going through some photos to submit for a couple features when I was reminded of just how versatile natural hair is.  I pulled up an old collage of my hair back in 2009/2010.  The array of styles ranges from twistouts to coilouts to twists to more:

(Circa 2009/2010.)  From left to right, starting with the first row: 1. kinky ponytail extension,  2.  high afro puff with scarf, 3. afro puff with hairtie, 4. comb coils, 5. air dried rollerset pinned up, 6. mini twistout, 7. braidout with flower, 8. coilout, 9. air dried rollerset.

Then I decided to make a collage of my hair from this year.

(2012.)  From left to right, starting with the first row: 1. twistout,  2. flat-ironed twisted ponytail, 3. frizzy twists in high side bun, 4. flat twistout into twists ponytail, 5. twists pinned up, 6. twistout on straightened hair, 7. jumbo twists on straightened hair, 8. twistout into high bun, 9. twists rolled up into pompadour.

I will admit that I haven't been as creative as in my earlier years, but that's because, as my hair has grown, I've incorporated more protective styling.  However, it was pretty cool to see that I'm still taking advantage of the versatility of natural hair.  In a strange kind of way, these collages inspired me to stay out of the boring slump into which I was falling and continue to have fun with my hair (though, of course not as the expense of health and length).  Hopefully it inspires you too!

2012.  Hair in shrunken wet state (drenched in conditioner).  
No curl definition.  Clumping due to old twistout.

Oldies, But Goodies

These posts are not that old, but they are worth the read.  If you haven't checked them on Black Girl Long Hair, here are the links:

1. 4 Lesser-Known Practices of Naturals with Long Hair

2. 4 Light But Effective Moisturizers

3. 5 Ways to Keep Natural Hair Moisturized in Dry Weather

4. 6 Ways to Reduce Breakage While Washing Natural Hair

5. 4 Best Moisturizers for Thick, Dry Natural Hair

Healthy Hair Feature: Alma

(Left) Shrunken braid out.  (Right) Stretched braid out.

1) Are you natural, relaxed, texlaxed, or transitioning? (And how long?) 

I am a natural 4a and have been now for 4 and half years. 

2) If you are natural, did you transition? 

Oh yes I transitioned for 18 months. I used braids and weaves to avoid the hassle of dealing with the two textures. To be honest though, by the time I came to do the big chop, majority of my relaxed hair had broken off so it was more of a small chop than anything else. I remember at first feeling really odd, naked somehow with just my little fro and without the security of hair but I got used to it pretty quickly and started to enjoy how freeing being natural was.

Flat-ironed. (End of 2011.)

3) What mistakes have you made in your hair care journey? 

Straight after my BC like many other naturals I was crazy for wash and go's and wore my hair like that for months on end. I also found that with my 50-70% shrinkage, braid outs did not stretch my hair any more than a wash and go. I actually took pictures that showed that my hair shrunk by the same degree either way! 

As my hair grew longer (at the time it was around shoulder length) and as a result of all those wash and go's, I found that I was getting way too many tangles and single strand knots. I noticed that one week I would have lots of single strand knots then a few weeks later they would disappear only to be replaced pretty quickly by new ones. Eventually I came to the conclusion that my hair was breaking at the site of the single strand knots and my new mission became to avoid them at all costs.

The only other major mistake that I've made was actually pretty recently when I decided to do mini twists. I had the worst tangling I've ever had in my time as a natural even though I'd only had the twists in for 2 weeks. My hair does not seem to like torsion twists of any sort so I stick with braids for styling or when I need to section my hair.

Shrunken braid out.

4) What is your current HEALTHY HAIR routine?

My regimen changes every now and again but as a rule, I deep condition with heat weekly and shampoo my hair most weeks too. Since my moisture protein balance has long since been established and I can usually tell what my hair is in need of, sometimes I will do a quick condition (between 10-30 minutes without heat) to maintain the balance. I always wash my hair in 4-6 braids because it makes it easier to handle.

Because my hair is colored I tend to err on the side of protein so I use a protein conditioner on most weeks. During grow out I will usually wear my hair in braids or weaves but I can only usually handle 2-3 weeks at a time, like many naturals I find that I miss my hair too much! Even so I find that my hair is in protective styles for up to 40% of the year. This allows me to maintain the most length. Of course once I get to goal, I probably won't do protective styles much.

I do strong protein treatments every couple of months or so and I moisturize and seal as needed which is usually every other day for me. Unlike other naturals who never go anywhere near heat, I used to flat iron my hair every couple of months and have done so all through my hair journey. Having said that, since I am now grazing waist length (I hope to be at waist length by the end of the year), it's way too much work to flat iron any more so straight hair will definitely take a backseat to curly styles for the time being.

My favorite go to hairstyle is a braid out because it's just so easy. I generally do it the traditional way of braiding wet to damp hair but I will sometimes do a stretch blow dry (tension method) to get my hair stretched before braiding it down. Pineapple-ing my hair every night helps to keep the curls for the entire week.

I have very well documented slow growth of just 4 inches per year so I never trim my hair as a rule. I've actually trimmed it just once in 4 years, and even then it didn't feel necessary!

5) Do you have a HEALTHY BODY routine? If so, what is it?

I have been interested in health for years but with so many contrasting views on the subject, in the past 10 years I have gone from one extreme diet to the other. I have been a low fat vegan and a zero carber! Unfortunately after ever stint on another extreme diet I came away with even more pounds than I started off with, classic yo yo dieting and no method has ever given me lasting weight loss. 

Lately I have been reading the work of Matt Stone who believes that the metabolism plays a huge role in overall health and that dieting and disordered eating is the cause of many modern diseases  He works with people to get their body temperatures up to normal levels.

When I first started my body temperature was a chilly 95.7 degrees and following his methods I have got it up to 97.7 first thing on waking in the morning. I am still carrying a lot of extra pounds but weight is apparently one of the last things to resolve after digestion and hormonal balance is restored. In the meantime I concentrate on getting adequate nutrition from all food groups while avoiding refined sugar and refined oils. I rarely eat out and all our food is cooked from scratch.

I am also in the process of trying to reduce my chemical load by switching to natural versions of products I currently use. I am using the wonderful deodorant recipe posted on your blog which works beautifully and I am using an FIR infrared sauna to help sweat out toxins.

High bun on straightened hair.

6) Do you have any advice for those seeking healthy tresses?

Absolutely! There are 3 key things in my opinion to growing long healthy hair.

1. Reduce manipulation. A lot of us think of moisture as the most important aspect of growing hair long but how often you manipulate your hair will be a bigger determinant of your length.

2. Keep it simple, there are dozens of techniques, hairstyles and wonderful sounding treatments available online but you don't have to try them all in one week. Stick to a simple but consistent regimen.

3. Products are very much secondary to your hair regimen. Only your regimen will determine the health and length of your hair in the long term. 

7) Where can we find you?

I run and write for Black Hair Information which I set up to help women of color grow long healthy hair relaxed or natural: http://www.blackhairinformation.com. I also write about my own hair on my personal blog here: http://www.curlycurvy.com/.