Reader's Question: Alopecia, Regrowth, and Hair Styles

READER'S QUESTION:

I have been following you for a while and I admit I am a huge fan of your articles. After carrying locs for 7 years, I big chopped in January to start a new nappy journey. Unfortunately, my hair start to shed heavily beginning of March. I believe it is because of an alopecia post-partum. (My daughter was born end of December). I even have bald spots. Having short hair and severe alopecia on the edges is quite a tough moment. I would like to know if you could make an article on this topic and give some advices to treat the alopecia and above all to style hair...I find it very hard to style my hair. Thank you in advance for your support. Cheers.

LOO'S ANSWER:

Gathered from what I've read as well as seen firsthand, this sort of alopecia can begin 2-5 months after childbirth (Eastthum, JH. Postpartum alopecia. The Annals of Pharmacotherapy, 2001) and should be temporary.  However, definitely consult a physician, especially if you are noticing more bald spots or no hair regrowth in the next few months.  In the meantime, I don't mind sharing the following:

TREATING POSTPARTUM ALOPECIA:

Time and patience.  I know that this is not an answer one wants to hear, but it's true.  Postpartum alopecia usually resolves itself, so just give it time.  In the meantime, it wouldn't hurt to massage the affected areas to help (a bit) with circulation and regrowth.  I do NOT recommend using essential oils, though, merely because some are not a good idea while breastfeeding.  However, you can consult your physician if you wish to use them.  

HAIRSTYLE IDEAS:

Finding hairstyles that mask the postpartum alopecia are difficult, but you can do your best to make things work until your hair grows back.  Some women (e.g., my sister after giving birth to her child) opt for cutting their to make it all closer to the same length.  Others go for wigs.  The two videos below provide additional options: 1) Fold N Tuck hairstyle for hiding bald spots or thinning areas and 2) a temporary spray-on color for visible bald areas.  I do wish you well and a belated congratulations on the birth of your daughter!

Study || Oil vs. Butter for Gloss, Combing, and Reduction in Split Ends

Many of us already know that in order to avoid breaking, dull hair we need some form of moisturization (i.e., water followed by an oil/butter/cream).  However, if we are just discussing oils and butters, which group is actually better for our hair?

A 2009 study on oils (Brazilian nut, mineral oil, passion seed, palm olein, buriti, palm stearin) and butters (ucuúba, sapucainha, tucumã) demonstrated that the former may be the better option when it comes to combing ease, gloss, and reduction in split end formation.  This conclusion is linked to the "molecular chain conformation" of triglycerides in oils versus in butters.  The triglycerides in the butters studied have more branches and higher melting points, both of which may increase friction and thus decrease the ease of spreading.  What does this mean in plain English?  Well, think of it this way: Because butters are harder to spread on the hair, they may not be as effective as oils in terms of combing ease, luster, and minimizing split ends.  (Some of you are probably saying "Duh!!" right now simply based on just experience.  Lol.)

Another conclusion from the study is that ucuúba butter improves the tensile strength of hair -- which is something that all the other oils and butters studied did not do.  The thought is that the low molar mass triglycerides of ucuúba butter are able to penetrate into the hair (you know, like coconut oil).

So, in short, choose the oil over the butter if you want more sheen + less breakage and splits.

ABSTRACT TO STUDY:
OILS AND BUTTERS: THE EFFECT OF DIFFERENT FATTY ACID CHAIN COMPOSITION ON HAIR (2009)

Case Study || "Tangle-Teezer-Like" Tool and Breakage?

I was on one of my favorite forums when I came across the following case study that was performed in India.  The report involves a tool that resembles the "Tangle Teezer" in terms of bristle arrangement and sizing.  (There are, of course, some differences between the tool in the report and the "Tangle Teezer", but the similarities cannot be neglected, in my honest opinion.)

So what is so interesting about this case study?  Well, to me, it does more than demonstrate how the use of certain hair tools may ultimately translate to breakage.  It does two more things:

1) It gives possible confirmation to those who jumped on the "Tangle Teezer" bandwagon and noticed an increase in breakage and split ends thereafter.

2) And, for my own hair care practices, it makes me think twice about using the "Tangle Teezer" on my flat-ironed hair.  (You see, I figured the problem with the tool that most people were experiencing was due to using it on textured hair.  I thought it okay to use the tool on straight hair ... until now.)  Contrary to what I initially guessed, the study was performed on patients who were not afro-textured but who had naturally straight/wavy hair.  Even on straight hair, this tool may present a problem!?!

Ultimately, patients were asked to: 

• avoid the tool (and instead use a straight comb with elongated bristles) AND 
• to change their combing habits (which involved using the tool on hair that had not been lubricated with conditioner or oil).

For the full study: TRICHORRHEXIS NODOSA INDUCED BY TOOL AND COMBING HABIT (2011)

About trichorrhexis nodosa -  "The essential abnormality of trichorrhexis nodosa is the formation of nodes along the hair shaft through which breakage readily occurs (Source)."

"Hidden" Sources of Breakage

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Breakage, breakage, breakage.  When we experience breakage, our first inclination is to presume dryness, over manipulation, or heat usage as the source.  However, sometimes the actual culprit may run a little deeper.  Here are some "hidden" sources of hair breakage:

1) Overstretching the hair: Do you stretch your hair prior to styling? If so, be sure you are using one of these least harmful methods: twists or loose braids. Banding is another option as well, depending on the tension.  On the other hand, tight banding or tight braiding can overstretch the hair and lead to weakened strands. Also, be sure you are stretching on damp hair instead of wet hair.  Wet hair will be more susceptible to breakage under tension. Lastly, refrain from using rubber bands or any other harmful hair tie (e.g., cotton) during the drying process.

2) Styling on wet or drenched hair: Hair is most fragile when wet or drenched with water.  Styling the hair in this state may lead to mechanical breakage.  Depending on the manipulation required for the desired style, it may be better to wait until the hair is damp or damp-dry.

3) Diet low in protein: Hair largely consists of protein (i.e., keratin) which is built from amino acids extracted from foods we put into our body.  A diet low in protein can translate into weaker, thinner hair strands (and thus breakage) or even hair loss.  Mitigate this issue by incorporating more nuts, chicken, fish, and beans into your diet.

4) Diet low in zinc, iron, and/or Vitamin B-12: A deficiency in any of these nutrients can result in weaker strands (and thus breakage) or even hair loss.  Taking a good multivitamin on a daily basis can ensure that you are receiving a sufficient amount of these nutrients. If you are severely deficient in zinc or iron (e.g., anemia), I highly recommend that you see a doctor.

5) Use of sulfate shampoos: Certain sulfate shampoos (e.g., shampoos containing SLS and ALS) can be harsh on the hair thus weakening the strands. Switching to a more gentle sulfate shampoo or a natural shampoo can mitigate this issue.

6) Overexposure to sun: Hair that was overexposed during the summer months can be showing signs of weakness and breakage in the fall/winter months. Depending on the extent of weakening, mitigation can range from regular deep conditioning the hair with protein to trimming for a fresh start.

7) Use of an improper comb: Thin-tooth combs or combs with seams can tug on the hair and yield mechanical breakage.  Stick to seamless, wide tooth combs.

8) Hair that used to be heat styled: Even if one has not used heat in a while, heat usage from months or even a year prior can be haunting the person now. Mid-shaft splits can be opening and yielding breakage. There is also the issue of split ends widening.  Trims are the best way to mitigate this problem.

9) Sleeping on a cotton pillowcase: Cotton can be both drying and abrasive to the hair.  Sleep on a satin/silk pillowcase or use a satin/silk bonnet to put a stop to this breakage source.

10) Hair that has been colored: Dyeing can weaken the hair shaft by lifting the cuticles. Depending on the extent of weakening, mitigation can range from regular deep conditioning with protein to trimming for a fresh start.

11) Protein-moisture imbalance: Hair can either become brittle or stretchy and thus break due to a protein-moisture imbalance.  Read this post for more information.

As always, please speak with your doctor before adjusting your diet or lifestyle.

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Label of the Day: Breakage

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Here are some posts on "Breakage" in case you've missed them:

Tips for a Sensitive Hairline
Tips for Transitioning or Stretching Relaxers
Nape Breakage?
Micro Twist Takedown on CNapp Hair
Boar Brush = Damage to Your Edges?

For more breakage-related posts, click here.