Healthy Hair on the Web: Omolade (Texlaxed/Relaxed)

Today's healthy head of hair belongs to Omolade.  Isn't just beautiful!  If you are texlaxed/relaxed and want proof that type 4 hair can grow long and thick, here it is!  Omolade relaxes her tresses about twice a year and lives in protective styles (mostly updos, buns, and wigs).  You can read more about her routine on her blog: http://www.rehairducation.com.

Healthy Hair on Youtube: Megan

If my hair was relaxed, this lady would be one of my biggest hair crushes.  (Okay, well she already is even though I am natural.)  Anyway, her regimen is on point and her hair looks healthy and bangin'!  If you're texlaxed or relaxed and looking for a new hair inspiration or hair care tips, check out her channel.  In the mean time, here are a couple of videos demonstrating her air drying and detangling technique.

 

Healthy Hair on Youtube: Traycee

This is for my relaxed/texlaxed ladies!  In the following video, Traycee (who is approaching hip-length) talks about texlaxing to maintain thickness, products with protein, and more ...

Protective Style Lookbook || Two Chic Up-do Styles (Natural OR Relaxed)

By popular demand, this is a series showcasing various protective hair styles.  Protective styling does not have to be boring. :o)

Model: Jsong

Difficulty level: 3/5

Description: Two up-dos on stretched medium-length hair.

Study || Hard Water Impact On Hair

Hard water metals concentrate primarily in the cuticle layer.  A study published in 2011 indicated that these metals can affect certain hair properties, which include:

- stiffening of hair strand
- reduction of combing forces
- improvement of ability to hold a style in virgin hair
- reduction of ability to hold a style in bleached hair

Additionally, certain variables affect the uptake of hard water metals by the hair, such as the:

- condition of the hair (e.g., chemically damaged)
- pH of the water
- level of water hardness


ABSTRACTS:
STRUCTURAL IMPLICATIONS OF HARD WATER METALS (2011)
UPTAKE OF HARD WATER METALS BY HAIR (2011)

Case Study || "Tangle-Teezer-Like" Tool and Breakage?

I was on one of my favorite forums when I came across the following case study that was performed in India.  The report involves a tool that resembles the "Tangle Teezer" in terms of bristle arrangement and sizing.  (There are, of course, some differences between the tool in the report and the "Tangle Teezer", but the similarities cannot be neglected, in my honest opinion.)

So what is so interesting about this case study?  Well, to me, it does more than demonstrate how the use of certain hair tools may ultimately translate to breakage.  It does two more things:

1) It gives possible confirmation to those who jumped on the "Tangle Teezer" bandwagon and noticed an increase in breakage and split ends thereafter.

2) And, for my own hair care practices, it makes me think twice about using the "Tangle Teezer" on my flat-ironed hair.  (You see, I figured the problem with the tool that most people were experiencing was due to using it on textured hair.  I thought it okay to use the tool on straight hair ... until now.)  Contrary to what I initially guessed, the study was performed on patients who were not afro-textured but who had naturally straight/wavy hair.  Even on straight hair, this tool may present a problem!?!

Ultimately, patients were asked to: 

• avoid the tool (and instead use a straight comb with elongated bristles) AND 
• to change their combing habits (which involved using the tool on hair that had not been lubricated with conditioner or oil).

For the full study: TRICHORRHEXIS NODOSA INDUCED BY TOOL AND COMBING HABIT (2011)

About trichorrhexis nodosa -  "The essential abnormality of trichorrhexis nodosa is the formation of nodes along the hair shaft through which breakage readily occurs (Source)."

When The Satin Bonnet (or Scarf) Is Not Enough

You have heard it before ... "Make sure you sleep with a satin scarf or bonnet to protect your hair while you sleep."  Well, have you ever awaken in the morning with the scarf or bonnet on the other side of the bed or with the moisture sucked out of your hair in spite of wearing one?  If so, you are not alone.

So, just how can you protect your strands and retain moisture at night when the satin scarf or bonnet is not enough?  Here are a few ideas:

1. For added protection, sleep on a satin pillowcase.  If your scarf or bonnet happens to slip off at night, your satin pillowcase will become the next line of protection against dry, frizzy, snagged hair.  Even if your scarf or bonnet stays on at night, sleeping on a satin pillowcase on top of that can do wonders for retaining moisture in your hair at night.

2. Purchase a better quality satin scarf or adjustable bonnet.  Not all satin scarves and bonnets are created equal.  Some are constructed from very thin and poor quality fabrics and threads.  What is considered a good quality satin? Well, first let me explain that the word "satin" is used to describe the type of weave.  There are "satin" polyesters and "satin" silks, for example.  Among the polyesters, "charmeuse satin" (or, sometimes called "satin charmeuse") is a smoother, better quality weave for the hair.  Purchasing a "charmeuse satin" scarf or bonnet is a good investment.  Also, look for adjustable bonnets (as opposed to purely elastic ones) for better stay at night.

3. Better yet, get a silk scarf or silk adjustable bonnet.  If you can afford to do so, silk is a much better material for the hair than polyester.  When searching for silk scarves or bonnets, look for those that say "charmeuse satin" (or, sometimes called "satin charmeuse").  This type of weave is the most luxurious of all the weaves.  Again, look for adjustable bonnets (as opposed to purely elastic ones) for better stay at night.

4. If you suffer from dry hair, turn on the humidifier.  The humidifier can provide extra vapor in the air thus creating a moisturizing environment for your hair while you sleep.

Reader's Question: Weaves/Sew-ins to Stretch Relaxers

For questions, use the "Contact Me" tab OR leave a comment below!

Reader's Question:
In order to stretch relaxers, is it okay that I have weave with braids in it or a sew in 2-3 weeks after a relaxer?

My Answer:

I personally would not recommend getting a weave/sew-in within two weeks after a relaxer.  Three weeks would be a much safer amount of time to wait, in my opinion.  Four weeks or more would be even better.  I say this because the scalp needs to "recover" (for lack of a better word) after a fresh relaxer.  Weaves/sew-ins can apply tension to the scalp, and installing one within two weeks can lead to hair loss.

After three to four weeks, weaves/sew-ins that are installed and maintained properly can be a good way to stretch relaxers.  Other safer options are braid-outs, cornrow-outs, twist-outs (with perm-rodded ends), ponytail roller sets, and straw sets.  Check out this earlier post on styles that blend the new growth with your relaxed ends.

I hope this answers your question!

The Basics to CHANGING a Hair Care Regimen || Part II

Last month, I discussed Part I of this short series.  Here is the second and final part:

Understand the pros and cons of what is it you want to incorporate into your regimen.  Do you want to incorporate heat usage?  Do want to use conditioners containing silicones?  Then make certain you research the pros and cons of such practices.  Without understanding all aspects of what it is you want to incorporate into your regimen, such adjustments can adversely surprise you ... and your hair.

Start with one adjustment.  Making multiple changes to your regimen at once can make it difficult to identify the culprit if setbacks happen.  This step especially applies to newbies in their hair care journey.

Try your new product more than once and in various ways.  Products that fail to work the first time or via one method make work the second or third time and via another method.  I have had this experience with such products as coconut oil, shea butter, and certain conditioners.  While coconut oil fails to moisturize or seal my hair after a fresh wash, it is actually moisturizing when I use it as a pre-poo or mixed with shea butter as a sealant.  While shea butter alone does nothing for my hair, it works very well when mixed with oils and even aloe vera gel.

The Basics to CHANGING a Hair Care Regimen || Part I

As we reach new lengths, sometimes our hair care regimens must change.  Our strands -- which may not only be longer now, but may also have changed slightly in coil/curl pattern -- may require different handling methods and products.  A change in our regimen may also be necessary when the ingredients listing on a staple product has been altered, our income has been adjusted, or the weather has varied significantly.  Whatever the reason for a change, it can be scary going from a familiar routine to a new one.  Let these quick tips be a guide and keep your fear at bay:

Look at what others with similar hair length, type, texture, AND density are doing.  It is not enough to just look at women with a similar hair type to yours.  Look for those with your length (or a length to which you aspire), texture (that is, fine, medium, or coarse strands - a measure of circumference), and density (that is, the number of strands on your head).  Use women with two to all four of these characteristics as a starting point for adjusting your routine. 

Find products with ingredients your hair loves.  This step is especially applicable if your staple product has new ingredients, is discontinued, or is now out of your budget.  Begin your search for a replacement by looking for a similar ingredients listings to your original staple product.  Look for generics - some of which may be carried at Sally's Beauty Supply (for U.S. readers) - for example, "Hair One" in place of "Wen".  Another option is to consider becoming a mixtress (that is, mixing your own product).

Use thicker, heavier products during colder weather.  Products that work just fine during the warmer months may lose their effectiveness in the colder months.  It may be necessary to incorporate or switch to heavier oils, conditioners, and butters.  They will better protect your strands and retain moisture in your hair during this time.

To be continued ...

Minimal-Damage Heat Regimen for Healthy Hair

So you are interested in using heat -- be it blow-drying or flat-ironing -- but you are terrified of destroying your healthy hair.  Too many horror stories about split ends and permanently straight strands resulting from heat usage.  Fear of losing the progress you worked so long to achieve.

The truth of the matter is that heat usage does not have to be so scary as long as you know your hair and know its limits.  Additionally, a high-moisture, high-strength, moderate-heat routine is necessary to minimize damage.  The regimen below is a good starting point for those who are ready to incorporate heat styling into their hair care.  However, if you can answer yes to any of the following questions, then I encourage you leave heat usage alone for now: Is your hair currently damaged?  Is your hair brittle or weak?  Is your hair newly colored or bleached?

PREPARING FOR HEAT USAGE:

Wash with a moisturizing shampoo.
With a heat-styling regimen, it is really important to maintain moisturized strands, even during the washing process.  Use of a drying shampoo will translate into more effort spent afterwards restoring moisture to your hair.  On the other hand, use of a moisturizing shampoo will help to lightly condition and moisturize your hair during the washing process.  Shampoos like these usually contain mild (rather than harsh) cleansing agents AND light conditioning ingredients.
Recommendations:  Elucence Moisture Benefits Shampoo, Creme of Nature Argan Oil Moisture and Shine Shampoo

Deep condition with a moisturizing protein conditioner.
Following up with a deep protein conditioner is essential to reinforce the hair shaft for manipulation and heat usage.  However, for those who are protein sensitive or have issues with protein-moisture balance, finding the right deep protein conditioner can be a challenge.  A great option is to try a deep conditioner with the dual role of strengthening (protein) and moisturizing.  Such conditioners will generally contain a hydrolyzed protein (e.g., keratin, collagen) for reinforcement and humectants (e.g, glycerin) for moisture retention.
Recommendations: Organic Root Stimulator Replenishing Pak

Quick condition with a silicone-based conditioner (optional).
This step is ideal for those who desire strands that are more manageable (e.g., easier combing, less tangly) and smoother for heat styling.  Also, if your hair is too hard after the above deep conditioning step, this quick condition will help to soften it.
Recommendations: Most Tresemme and Pantene conditioners

Moisturize with a light water-based product and then seal. (No humectants.)
This is your final moisturizing step prior to applying heat to your hair.  You can simply apply a good oil/butter-based sealant to your damp, conditioned hair or after applying a light water-based moisturizer.  Avoid products with humectants in order to delay reversion and frizz.  Also, avoid overly heavy products which can contribute to buildup.
Moisture recommendations: water, Oyin Hair Dew, KBB's Super Silky Leave-In Conditioner
Sealant recommendations: homemade whipped butter, Oyin Whipped Butter


IF FLAT IRONING:

Airdry in big braids.
Air dry your hair as opposed to blow drying to minimize your heat usage.  Doing so in big braids will stretch the hair better than twists though it will also take longer.

Apply a silicone-based heat protectant.

A good heat protectant will usually contain silicones, such as dimethicone or cyclomethicone, which are the most effective at inhibiting damage.  Applying a heat protectant is necessary to reduce the rate at which heat travels through the hair.  Be sure to apply a sufficient amount and section by section.

Recommendations: Carol's Daughter Macademia, Proclaim Glossing Polish Color and Heat Protection, CHI Silk Infusion

Flat iron using a moderate temperature and no more than two passes.

Read this post on "The Natural Haven" for information on the temperature profile for human hair.  If you do use a setting above 300 degrees F, try not to go above 350 F.  Also, invest in a quality flat iron so that little effort (including minimal passes) is required to achieve the look for which you are aiming.  Also, find one with a temperature dial so that you can control the heat level.


IF BLOW-DRYING:

Apply a silicone-based heat protectant.

A good heat protectant will usually contain silicones, such as dimethicone or cyclomethicone, which are the most effective at inhibiting damage.  Applying a heat protectant is necessary to reduce the rate at which heat travels through the hair.  Be sure to apply a sufficient amount and section by section.

Recommendations: Carol's Daughter Macademia, Proclaim Glossing Polish Color and Heat Protection, CHI Silk Infusion

Blow dry using the tension method (no combs or brushes).
Read more (and view tutorials) about it in this earlier post.  Also, it is less damaging to blow dry on damp hair rather than sopping wet hair.  Investing in one with a diffuser is ideal to evenly distribute the heat across your hair.


HOW OFTEN?

Alternate between your heat-styling routine and no-heat styles.
Wear your straight hair for 2-3 weeks and then air dried no-heat styles (e.g., twists, buns, braids, roller set) the rest of the time.  Whether you choose to wear heat-styled looks twice a year or twelve times a year is up to you and your preference.  However, the lower your frequency of heat usage, the better your hair will fair in the long run.

DIY Hair Care: What Ingredients and When?

When it comes to hair care, it is vital (yes, vital) to know how certain ingredients work on our strands.  Having this knowledge reduces the "trial and error" involved in both building and adjusting a hair care regimen.

Below is a quick guide for the more popular, natural ingredients (with the exception of a couple) involved in DIY hair care.  Do keep in mind that what works for most individuals may (or may not) work for you.

When you want to take advantage of the humidity:
Glycerin, honey
Why: Humectants (moisture retention).
How to use: Add to a moisturizer or a leave-in.

When you want an oil-based sealant:

Soybean oil, grapeseed oil, castor oil, avocado oil

Why: These oils can reduce moisture loss.

How to use: Use separately or add some to your moisturizer.

When you want a light sealant:

Jojoba oil, grapeseed oil

Why: Light compared to other oils (jojoba being the lighter of the two).

How to use: Use separately or add some to your moisturizer.

When you want a heavy sealant:

Olive oil, shea butter (melted)

Why: Olive oil is one of the heavier oils.  Many butters (such as shea) contain fatty acids like oils but are heavier than oils.

How to use: Use separately or add some to your moisturizer.

When your scalp is itchy:

Tea tree essential oil, aloe vera juice

Why: Some find either of these substances to be soothing to the skin.

How to use: (Tea tree) Use a few drops with water or a carrier oil.  (Aloe vera) Use straight or mix with water. NOTE: If you are pregnant or have a health condition, please consult your doctor before using essential oils.

When your scalp is dry:

Jojoba oil, aloe vera juice

Why: Jojoba oil is a light oil (non-heavy).  Aloe vera juice is light, moisturizing, and soothing to the skin.

How to use: (Jojoba) Massage a few drops into the scalp.  (Aloe vera) Use straight or mix with water.

When you want a moisturizing or softening oil:

Grapeseed oil, safflower oil, castor oil

Why: These oils tend to leave the hair feeling soft and moist.

How to use: Use separately or add some to your moisturizer.

When you want a moisturizing or softening non-oil:

Glycerin, aloe vera gel/juice, rosewater, honey, water

Why: Glycerin and honey are humectants (good for moisture retention).  Aloe vera gel/juice and rosewater are moisturizing.  Water is the best natural form of hydration.

How to use: Use separately, add to your moisturizer, or mix one (or more) ingredients to create a moisturizing spritz.  NOTE: Adding water, aloe vera juice, or rosewater to a whipped butter can create an environment for bacterial and/or fungal growth.

When you want shine or sheen:

Castor oil, coconut oil, avocado oil, apple cider vinegar

Why: Castor oil has been shown to impart sheen (see earlier post).  Coconut oil and avocado oil are ones that many women swear by.  Due to its pH level, apple cider vinegar may help to flatten the cuticles, thus allowing for more shine or sheen.

How to use: (Castor, coconut, avocado) Use separately or add some to your moisturizer. (Apple cider vinegar) Use as a post-wash rinse with cold water for 5 minutes.

When your shampoo is drying:
Coconut oil, olive oil
Why: Moisturizing and lubricating.
How to use: Pre-poo with any of the above oils or add to shampoo.

When your shampoo is not cleansing enough:
Baking soda
Why: Easily lifts oils and dirt.
How to use: Mix a little with your shampoo. (Be sure to follow up with an apple cider vinegar rinse.)

When you want more slip in your conditioner:
Shea butter (melted), coconut oil, olive oil
Why: Lubricating.
How to use: Add some to your conditioner.

When you want a more moisturizing conditioner:
Glycerin, honey, shea butter (melted)
Why: (glycerin, honey) moisture retention; (shea butter) emollient.
How to use: Add some to your conditioner.

When you want a more strengthening conditioner:
Coconut oil, hydrolyzed protein (e.g. keratin, collagen), egg
Why: Coconut oil has been shown to penetrate the hair and reduce keratin loss (abstract).  Hydrolyzed protein penetrates the hair and provides reinforcement by replacing lost keratin.  The egg contains protein (though too big to penetrate our strands) and is an ingredient that some women swear by.  For maximum strengthening, go for conditioners containing hydrolyzed protein.
How to use: (Coconut oil) Best used as a pre-poo to minimize breakage, but may also use post-wash.  (Egg) Add to your conditioner.  (Hydrolyzed protein) Find a commercial conditioner with this ingredient.

When you want more hold and definition:

Shea butter, mango butter, beeswax, aloe vera gel, flaxseed gel

How to use: Add some to your moisturizer or use separately.  (Mango provides more hold than shea butter.)

When you want a lighter, less oil-based whipped butter (e.g., warm weather):

Aloe vera gel, jojoba oil

Why: moisturizing, but light

How to use: Mix a 1:1 shea butter and aloe vera gel mixture (or a variation of this recipe).

When you want a heavier, more oil-based whipped butter (e.g., cold weather):

Olive oil, coconut oil, grapeseed oil, safflower oil, castor oil

Why: moisturizing and sealing

How to use: Mix a 1:1 or 2:1 shea butter and oil(s) mixture.

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Free Consultation and 3-Month Hair Care Plan

All who are natural, relaxed/texlaxed, or transitioning are welcome to join.

Are you having setback after setback?  Are you struggling to reach your hair goals?  Are you having difficulty determining the right hair care regimen for you?

Well, I may have a solution for you.

I have been on each side of the triangle (relaxed, transitioning, and natural now for some years) and would like to use what I have experienced and learned to help others reach their goals.  Of course, this blog was designed to be an avenue for sharing some of that information, but I would like to have one-on-one interaction with you to help you even more.  That being said, I am offering the following services for free (that's right, FREE) to four committed women:

* A healthy hair care regimen tailored for your hair
* Product recommendations tailored for your hair
* A personalized PDF booklet containing length retention tips and other relevant info from the blog
* Three Skype OR phone sessions to discuss the status of your hair care journey
* Hair care resources (e.g., videos and articles from hair care gurus) tailored for you
* Discount codes or access to product sales if available or relevant to your needs

This program will last for 3 months and the idea is that at the end of the program, you will have a better understanding of your hair and be closer to reaching your goals.

Now the question is how do you become one of those four women?  Well, I need you to leave a comment below AND use the Contact Me form, if you are interested.  In the comment section below, describe why you should be one of those five women.  In the Contact Me form, just type "HHB Consultation" in the Subject line and include a short message.  I will then reply to your message with further details, which will include a request for your hair type, photos of your hair, etc.  The four women will be chosen on June 22, 2012.

Hair Issues || High Porosity (and Low Porosity)

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Porosity.  What is it?  It is a measure of how easily water and other substances can enter and exit the hair strand.  Depending on the condition of the hair's cuticle layers, the porosity can rank from low (i.e., the result of flat, tightly bound cuticles) to high (i.e., the result of gaps or lifted cuticles).  Highly porous hair, in particular, is more susceptible to moisture loss and breakage.  If your hair is highly porous, read the following article on how to combat the issue:

ADDRESSING HIGH POROSITY

For low porosity or more on porosity in general:
POROSITY EXPLAINED

Healthy Styles for Transitioning or Stretching Relaxers

Are you transitioning from relaxed or texturized to natural ... or stretching your relaxers for a long period of time?  Do you want to minimize heat usage during this period?  Well, below are some styles you can wear to disguise the texture difference between your new growth and chemically straightened ends.  None of the styles require direct heat; in some cases, one can just airdry or sit under a hooded dryer.  Enjoy!

The Strawset: VIDEO TUTORIAL (PART I) (best done on damp hair), PART II

The Cornrow-Out: VIDEO TUTORIAL (PART I),  PART II

The Rollerset + Saran Wrap: VIDEO TUTORIAL

The Wig: VIDEO TUTORIAL

The Braid/Twist Extensions: VIDEO TUTORIAL

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Protein Moisture Balance Solved

Are you trying to perfect the protein moisture balance?  Many women who have relaxed and/or colored hair face the issue of maintaining a proper balance between protein conditioning and moisturization.  (A few non-colored naturals face this issue as well.)  If the scale is tipped too far to the "protein" side, the result can be dry, brittle hair with little elasticity.  On the other hand, if the scale is tipped too far to the "moisture" side, the result can be mushy, stretchy hair. Audrey Sivasothy, the author of "The Science of Black Hair", discusses how to set the protein moisture balance in the following articles:

http://www.blackhairscience.com/hair-breakage-101-protein-and-moisture/
http://www.blackhairscience.com/protein-and-moisture-balancing-in-black-hair/

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Jojoba oil, Wax, & Relaxers

According to one study, most conditioning agents in relaxer kits break down and have no effect by the time the consumer uses them. This finding implies that using some level of added conditioning while relaxing may minimize damage. What is the best conditioner? According to a second study, jojoba oil is amongst the best at protecting the hair while relaxing (with thioglycolate-based relaxers). Polymethylene wax (in conjunction with other substances) is beneficial for the traditional NaOH- and LiOH-based relaxers.  For further reading, check out the links below.

Originally posted as part of the "Retaining the Hair You Grow" series.

SOURCES & MORE READS:
CONDITIONER BREAKDOWN IN RELAXERS & POLYMETHYLENE WAX
JOJOBA OIL & RELAXERS

RETAINING THE HAIR YOU GROW SERIES:
CHEMICAL DAMAGE

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Study on Relaxers and Fibroids

The findings of a study at Boston University "raise the hypothesis that hair relaxer use increases" fibroids in women.  So can relaxers cause fibroids?  Further research is necessary, but the study points to a possibility.


ABSTRACT: http://aje.oxfordjournals.org/content/early/2012/01/10/aje.kwr351.short

NEWS: http://www.myfoxhouston.com/dpp/news/local/120217-study-causes-hair-scare-about-tumors#ixzz1mwiRrwTi

Basic Regimen & Products for HEALTHY Relaxed Hair

For "Basic Regimen & Products for HEALTHY Natural Hair", check this post.

Part of perfecting a regimen is learning what your hair likes and dislikes. But before you reach that point ... before you come to know your hair, where do you begin?

Prior to going natural, I was relaxed for several years.  During that period, I learned what to do and what not to do for my hair to thrive.  In this post, I list the basic "to do's" which I hope can be a good starting point for those who desire healthy relaxed tresses. In time, as you learn your hair, you can tweak these "basics":

*STRETCH YOUR RELAXERS

Damage can occur when the hair is relaxed too frequently.  It is important to allow sufficient new growth to accumulate before your next touch up session; this waiting period is called "stretching".  Another benefit to this technique is less exposure to the chemicals associated with relaxing.  The scalp gets a longer "break" between relaxing sessions.
Many women with healthy relaxed hair "stretch" their relaxers for 3-6 months at a time, and I recommend the same to you.  During that period, do low manipulation styles in order to minimize breakage and tangling.

*CLEANSE THE HAIR WEEKLY

A clean scalp is vital for healthy growth. Cleansing the hair is also a product of good hygiene. Start by washing your hair 1x a week and tweak it from there. In between washes, does your scalp or hair feel extra dirty? If so, increase the frequency of your washes. If your new growth is significant, I highly recommend washing in braided sections.

Choosing a shampoo: It is ideal to invest in a weekly shampoo that lacks Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), which are surfactants that may be too harsh for the hair and scalp. Instead, gravitate towards shampoos containing gentler cleansing agents to be on the safer side.

Product recommendations: Giovanni Tea Tree, Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Moisturizing Shampoo, Desert Essence Shampoos

*DEEP CONDITION & DETANGLE AFTER EACH WASH

Whether you wash 1x a week or 3x a week, follow it up with a deep conditioning session. Why? Because each wash rinses away the benefits of the previous the deep conditioning session. Deep conditioners are important because they temporarily bind to (and sometimes penetrate into) the hair protecting and smoothing the strand until the next wash. Undo each braid, apply the conditioner, and rebraid. Put on a plastic bag and be sure to allow the conditioner to sit for at least 30 minutes.  Then detangle with a wide tooth comb and rinse.

Choosing a deep conditioner: Look for one that contains strengthening ingredients, such as hydrolyzed collagen or hydrolyzed keratin, near the top of the list.  The amount/type of the ingredient depends on how much strengthening your hair requires.  I also recommend finding a deep conditioner that has 'slip' and moisture.  This will ease the detangling process and provide a protein-moisture balance, respectively. Deep conditioners like this usually contain an oil and/or a fatty alcohol (e.g., cetyl alcohol) for slip ... and glycerin and other humectants for moisture.

Product recommendations for strength: Aphogee 2 Minute Reconstructor; Organic Root Stimulator Hair Mayonnaise; Homemade egg conditioner (recipes here)

Product recommendations for strength, moisture, & slip: Organic Root Stimulator Olive Oil Replenishing Pak; Lekair Cholesterol (mixed with olive oil); Aubrey Organics GPB Balancing Conditioner; Egg/mayonnaise/olive oil (recipe here under "Loo's recipe"); 

*SEAL AFTER EACH WASH & MOISTURIZE AS NEEDED

Water is the best moisturizer out there for our hair. After a good wash and deep conditioning session, you can follow up with an oil or butter to seal in the water. In between washes, if your hair gets dry, you can apply a bit of water or do a full-on spritz and then re-seal. Another option is to use a water-based spritz or moisturizer.

Choosing a moisturizer: Go straight for the water or look for water-based moisturizers (where water will be the first ingredient listed).

Product recommendations: Water, Homemade spritz of rosewater and glycerin (a humectant)

Choosing a sealant: Look for products that contain oils and/or butters.

Product recommendations: Homemade whipped shea butter (recipe here), grapeseed oil, olive oil, avocado oil, castor oil, Jane Carter Nourish & Shine

AIRDRY IN ROLLERS & VOILA!

Get a smooth sleek look while minimizing heat usage by airdrying in a rollerset.  For hair with a lot of new growth, do a ponytail rollerset to avoid puffy roots (video tutorial); just be sure not to apply too much tension via hair ties.  Be sure to wear a silk scarf to bed or use a silk pillow case to protect your cuticles as you sleep.

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Extra steps you may want to include in your regimen:

*CO-WASH IF NEEDED:

If you find that frequent shampooing is drying to your hair, you may want to explore using a conditioner to wash. Just wet your hair, apply conditioner, and massage your scalp and hair as usual. After rinsing the conditioner the out, seal and style.

Choosing a conditioner: Look for a non-heavy inexpensive conditioner. Heavy conditioners will build up on the hair too quickly.  Avoid protein-based and silicone-based conditioners when it comes to co-washing.

Product recommendations: Suave Coconut Conditioner, V05 Champagne Kisses, V05 Honeydew Smoothie, V05 Passionfruit Smoothie, V05 Blackberry Sage Tea

*CLARIFY IF NEEDED:

If you find that regular shampooing does not adequately remove product buildup from your hair, you may want to explore clarifying. Start with doing this once a month and then adjust as needed.

Product recommendations: V05 Kiwi Clarifying Shampoo (not as drying as other clarifying shampoos)

*PRE-POO IF NEEDED:
For more on prepooing, check this post.

**INTERNAL HEALTH:

If your internal health is not on point, work on it. Drink sufficient water, get plenty of rest, exercise, and include the hair foods (click here) in your diet! Internal health as just as crucial to hair care as external care.

Gain and Retain Length on Afro-Textured Hair

Chicoro is someone I would describe as an afro-textured hair growth guru.  She shares a wealth of FREE information to subscribers of her website: http://beautifybitbybit.com/.  Check out the site, enter your email address, and get information sent to your inbox weekly.  I did! Enjoy!