Study || Oil vs. Butter for Gloss, Combing, and Reduction in Split Ends

Many of us already know that in order to avoid breaking, dull hair we need some form of moisturization (i.e., water followed by an oil/butter/cream).  However, if we are just discussing oils and butters, which group is actually better for our hair?

A 2009 study on oils (Brazilian nut, mineral oil, passion seed, palm olein, buriti, palm stearin) and butters (ucuúba, sapucainha, tucumã) demonstrated that the former may be the better option when it comes to combing ease, gloss, and reduction in split end formation.  This conclusion is linked to the "molecular chain conformation" of triglycerides in oils versus in butters.  The triglycerides in the butters studied have more branches and higher melting points, both of which may increase friction and thus decrease the ease of spreading.  What does this mean in plain English?  Well, think of it this way: Because butters are harder to spread on the hair, they may not be as effective as oils in terms of combing ease, luster, and minimizing split ends.  (Some of you are probably saying "Duh!!" right now simply based on just experience.  Lol.)

Another conclusion from the study is that ucuúba butter improves the tensile strength of hair -- which is something that all the other oils and butters studied did not do.  The thought is that the low molar mass triglycerides of ucuúba butter are able to penetrate into the hair (you know, like coconut oil).

So, in short, choose the oil over the butter if you want more sheen + less breakage and splits.

ABSTRACT TO STUDY:
OILS AND BUTTERS: THE EFFECT OF DIFFERENT FATTY ACID CHAIN COMPOSITION ON HAIR (2009)

Mixology || Simple Detangler Recipe Using Shea Butter and Oils

This recipe is ideal for undoing an old set of twists or braids.

Ingredients: 
4 tbsp coconut oil
4 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp melted shea butter (optional, but makes the process much easier)

Directions:
All you need for this detangler are coconut oil, olive oil, and melted shea butter. Apply this mixture to dry or damp hair, allow it to set, and then proceed to finger detangle. (Leaving coconut oil on dry hair overnight has been demonstrated to reduce combing damage.)

Hair Diary || From Loose Twists to My Usual Twists + New Detangling Method

Doing a new set of twists.

I wore the loose twists for almost two weeks then undid them, washed, conditioned, and detangled.  After that, I air dried in rollers again and put in another set of loose twists.  I wasn't quite feeling them this go around, so after a couple days, I transitioned to my usual twists.  I'm in week #2 and plan to keep them in for a total of three weeks.

Now for my new detangling method.  As an effort to get to hip-length (HL) sometime late next year, I knew that something(s) in my regimen had to improve ... one being that I be more patient in my detangling method.  As my hair got longer, detangling sessions obviously became more tedious and opened the door to a bit of impatience on my part.  I did not notice the effects until I started monitoring my front hair over a couple of years.  (Check this earlier post for more details.)  Once I became more patient with that section (and gave myself a fresh trim), it flourished!  And here I thought my bangs had reached their terminal length.

For the remainder of this year, I want to try that theory on the rest of my hair.  I'm not going to lie ... for a while, I thought WSL was it ... was my terminal length, but I want to exhaust this option before making that conclusion.  So what is my new detangling method?  Well, I'm currently experimenting with a few different ones before I finalize on one.  Here is option #1 at the moment:

Finger separate on dry, lubricated hair + Finger detangle on damp, conditioner-soaked hair.
In all honesty, doing a full finger detangling on dry hair prior to washing just doesn't work for me and does my hair more harm than good.  However, finger detangling on damp, conditioner-soaked hair has been working really well so far.  The catch?  My hair cannot be too tangled beforehand.  That being said, I've haven't tried this on hair that has been twisted for the long-term, so the story could be different in that case.  Right now, my experiment is to thoroughly finger separate each twist after pre-pooing overnight with coconut oil, put my hair into 8 big braids, wash, then whip out the conditioner and do the full finger detangle.

I will keep you all posted and should have a final updated regimen before the end of the year.  Now for more hair pics:

From loose twists to my usual "traditional" twists.

Twisting.

Done.  Will wear for three weeks.

Mixology || Homemade Banana Conditioner (by Loo)

Another natural deep conditioner.  This one softens and infuses the hair with moisture for detangling.

Homemade Banana Conditioner -

Ingredients:
1 medium/large overripe banana (sliced)
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil (for lubrication, moisture while detangling)
2 tbsp glycerin (humectant, moisture)
2 tbsp honey (humectant, moisture)

Instructions:
Place sliced bananas, extra virgin olive oil, glycerin, and honey all in a blender. Blend the ingredients thoroughly making sure no lumps or banana bits remain. (Depending on your blender quality, you may or may not have to then sieve the mixture with a fine sieve.  Another option is to use banana baby food.) Apply to hair and let sit for 30-45 minutes under a shower cap. Detangle, rinse thoroughly, and style as usual.  (If not rinsed out thoroughly, your hair may be left hard and with mixture remnants once dry.)

Hair after detangling. If you've been following me for some time, you will be wondering how these "curls" appeared considering that I have no natural curl pattern whatsoever.  Well, it looks to be the conditioner.  The last time I used a similar concoction (transitioning days), my hair did the same thing. 

You can now find HHB on Facebook. Share with your friends:

http://www.facebook.com/healthyhairandbody.

Friday's Length Retention Tip!

Do you want to reach your goal? Then ...

adopt a low/no comb routine.  Combing the hair is a form of mechanical manipulation and may encourage breakage (Source).  Thus, keep combing to a minimum (e.g., once a month, every few months, or never).  If possible, opt for finger detangling instead.

Other tips:

*Use a wide tooth bone/resin comb instead of a regular comb
*Finger detangle on dry, lubricated, stretched hair
*Comb on damp, conditioner-soaked hair
*Toss out your brushes (denman, tangle teezer, paddle, etc.)

Twist Series: Long Lasting Twists

Here are some tips for increasing the wear of your twists:

1) Twist on dry, stretched hair.  
Twists done on wet hair tend to frizz faster than those done on dry, stretched hair.

2) Use a twist pudding.
Use a twist pudding to twist your hair.  This step will help to add hold to your twists.  The pudding can be made from a simple mix of gel, a butter (e.g., shea), and a little oil (optional).  Be sure not to use too much pudding.

3) Refrain from using moisturizers with humectants.
Prior to twisting, do not use a humectant-based moisturizer.  Humectants draw moisture from the air and can cause your twists to frizz faster.  Glycerin, propylene glycol, and honey are just a few examples of humectants.  (If you absolutely cannot do without humectants, then neglect this step because health comes before beauty.)

4) Use the rope/Senegalese twist method.
Take two strands, coil each one upon itself, and then twist.  The coiling makes for smoother, longer-lasting twists.  For a further description and tutorial of the rope/Senegalese twist method, check this post.

5) Wear a silk/satin scarf to bed.
Bonnets are fine, but scarves will lay down any frizzies and keep the style looking fresher longer.  Be sure not to tie the scarf too tight.

6) Wear a silk/satin scarf under your shower cap.
The scarf will reinforce protection of your style from the water and steam.

7) Keep moisturizing to a minimum.
If you are spritzing your twists daily, then your style will not last long.  Find a moisturizer or sealant that can allow you to go days, or even a week, without reapplication.

8) Keep washes to a minimum.
A good twist style can usually survive 1-2 washes before it is time for a redo.  If you are washing more times than that during the week, your twists will not last long.

9) Braid your twists before washing.
Doing this will help to keep your twists intact and minimize frizzing.

10) Airdry in braids.
Not only will this minimize frizzies, but it has the added benefit of minimizing shrinkage.

11) Redo the perimeter only.
Re-twisting the twists on the perimeter (particularly after a wash) will give your overall twist look a fresher appearance.

12) Wear smaller twists.
The smaller the twists, the longer lasting the style.  Bigger twists tend to unravel and frizz faster.

For other posts in the Twist Series, check this label.
If you have questions you would like to be answered in the Twist Series, comment below.