Study || Herbal Oils as a Natural Sunscreen?

According to quite a few studies, certain herbal oils can provide a level of protection from the sun.  The calculated SPF values range from 0.248 to 7.549.  Olive oil and coconut oil are among the highest ranking ones.

Now, though these oils provide some sun protection, I would not go so far as to use them in place of a regular sunscreen.  After all, many dermatologists recommend that women of color wear a sunscreen with an SPF of 15 or even 30.  Olive oil and coconut oil have an SPF of only 7.5 and 7.1, respectively.  Some of these oils, however, can decelerate damage caused to the skin after sun exposure ... which is something that sunscreens generally do not do.   (Check out my earlier post on olive oil after UVB-exposure.)  Additionally, these oils can provide our hair with a level of sun protection. :o)

SOURCES
SPF DETERMINATION OF HERBAL OILS IN COSMETICS (2010)
OLIVE OIL ON UV-INDUCED CANCER (2000)
EFFECT OF ALMOND OIL ON UVB-INDUCED PHOTOAGING (2007)

Mixology || Coconut Oil Lotion Bars

This is a super easy recipe requiring only 2-3 ingredients!

Recipe Source: Coconut Mama

Equipment

saucepan

lotion mold, muffin pan or tins 

Ingredients

1 part Coconut Oil 

1 part Pure Beeswax

Essential Oils (Optional)

For the instructions, check out Coconut Mama.

Study || Oil vs. Butter for Gloss, Combing, and Reduction in Split Ends

Many of us already know that in order to avoid breaking, dull hair we need some form of moisturization (i.e., water followed by an oil/butter/cream).  However, if we are just discussing oils and butters, which group is actually better for our hair?

A 2009 study on oils (Brazilian nut, mineral oil, passion seed, palm olein, buriti, palm stearin) and butters (ucuúba, sapucainha, tucumã) demonstrated that the former may be the better option when it comes to combing ease, gloss, and reduction in split end formation.  This conclusion is linked to the "molecular chain conformation" of triglycerides in oils versus in butters.  The triglycerides in the butters studied have more branches and higher melting points, both of which may increase friction and thus decrease the ease of spreading.  What does this mean in plain English?  Well, think of it this way: Because butters are harder to spread on the hair, they may not be as effective as oils in terms of combing ease, luster, and minimizing split ends.  (Some of you are probably saying "Duh!!" right now simply based on just experience.  Lol.)

Another conclusion from the study is that ucuúba butter improves the tensile strength of hair -- which is something that all the other oils and butters studied did not do.  The thought is that the low molar mass triglycerides of ucuúba butter are able to penetrate into the hair (you know, like coconut oil).

So, in short, choose the oil over the butter if you want more sheen + less breakage and splits.

ABSTRACT TO STUDY:
OILS AND BUTTERS: THE EFFECT OF DIFFERENT FATTY ACID CHAIN COMPOSITION ON HAIR (2009)

Study || Palm Oil + Conditioning Damaged Hair

Damaged hair has a higher degree of swelling in water than relatively healthy hair.  Because of this increase in swelling, damaged hair will experience even more damage.  According to a 2012 study, hydrogenated palm oil is effective at preventing water-induced swelling of damaged hair, possibly because it can "penetrate into the cuticle and outer cortex" of said hair.

SOURCE:
"Distribution Analysis of Triglyceride Having Repair Effect on Damaged Human Hair by TOF-SIMS." Toru Kojima, Shiho Tsuji, Masanao Niwa, Kaori Saito, Yasuyuki Matsushita, Kazuhiko Fukushima.  International Journal of Polymer Analysis and Characterization. Vol. 17, Iss. 1, 2012.

Study || Olive Oil, Antioxidant Power, and Skin Protection

A 2000 study suggests that topical application of virgin olive oil after UVB exposure can reduce UVB-related skin tumors.  The thought is that the antioxidant power of the oil is responsible for this benefit.  (Extra virgin olive oil is said to have a "potent antioxidant effect".)

SOURCES & OTHER READS:
PREVENTATIVE EFFECT OF OLIVE OIL AGAINST UV-INDUCED SKIN CANCER (2000)
PREVENTATIVE EFFECT OF OLIVE OIL AGAINST PHOTOCARCINOGENESIS (2000)
VIRGIN OLIVE OIL AS A SKIN PROTECTOR (2009)

Mixology || My Multi-Oil Whipped Shea Butter for Winter

So with the winter being extra cold and drying (and with the luck of my last batch finishing), I decided to whip up a largely oil-based batch this time.  (I actually used to do this in the past but never with this many oils.)  Each oil has its purpose, and my hair is LOVING this concoction for the winter.  It is just what I need!

Ingredients:
½ cup shea butter
2 tbsp coconut oil (penetrates and protects the strands against combing/styling breakage)
2 tbsp olive oil (moisturizing; possibly penetrates the strands)
2 tbsp avocado oil (moisturizing; possibly penetrates the strands)
1 tbsp grapeseed oil (to protect against moisture loss; sealing oil)
1 tbsp castor oil (primarily for sheen and sealing)
few drops of jasmine essential oil (optional, for fragrance)

Instructions:
Break the shea butter into small pieces and place in a bowl.  Using a hand mixer, whip the shea butter until fluffy and the chunks are gone.  (If your shea butter is too hard, melt it only slightly to soften it a bit.)  Add in the remaining ingredients and mix thoroughly with the hand mixer.  Finito! 

Mixology || Homemade Hair Pomade

Recipe Source: Mommypotamus

Ingredients:
1 ounce organic beeswax
1.5 ounces shea butter
2 ounces jojoba oil – "This is a “dry” oil that keeps the formula from being too greasy." 

1/8 – 1/4 teaspoon essential oil

Directions:

1. When the beeswax is melted, add in shea butter
2. When the mixture is melted, add jojoba and stir until just melted
3. Pour mixture into a container and allow to cool slightly, then add essential oil

Recipe Source: Mommypotamus

Studies || Argan Oil + Hyperpigmention, Oily Skin and Cardiovascular Health

Argan oil is the new "it" oil in the hair care community.  Ladies are talking about it online.  Companies are including it on the labels of their conditioners and shampoos.  Many of us have heard about it.

Well today, putting hair care aside, let us look at argan oil in skin care and overall body care.  Here are a few findings worth mentioning:

• Argan oil may be effective against hyperpigmentation disorders (e.g., acne scarring).
• Extract from saw palmetto and sesame seeds in an argan-oil base was shown to control oily skin.
• Findings suggest that regular consumption of argan oil can lower "bad cholesterol" (i.e., LDL cholesterol).

SOURCES:
ARGAN OIL AGAINST HYPERPIGMENTATION (2013)
SEBUM CONTROL VIA SAW PALMETTO, SESAME SEEDS, AND ARGAN OIL CREAM (2007)
ARGAN OIL AND LOWERING OF LDL CHOLESTEROL (2004)

Study || Oil Pulling + Oral Health

Oil pulling is an old Ayurvedic practice that consists of gargling with (or holding a mouthful of) oil for several minutes to detoxify the body thus eliminating many health issues.  Some of us have heard about it.  Some of us practice it.  But is there any research that shows its efficacy against health issues?  Well, while I could find nothing concerning the effectiveness of oil pulling against migraines, diabetes, asthma, and many other claimed health benefits, I did find a study involving oral health.

This study was conducted back in 2008 with the use of sesame oil, to be exact, and 10 minutes of gargling daily for two weeks.  So what was the conclusion?  Oil pulling prior to brushing was effective in reducing bacteria related to tooth decay (specifically the Streptococcus mutans that was found in plaque).  Thus, oil pulling can be used "as a preventative home therapy to maintain oral health" [1].

SOURCES:
EFFECT OF OIL PULLING ON S. MUTANS COUNT IN PLAQUE ... (2008)
A REVIEW OF OIL PULLING AND OTHER HOLISTIC APPROACHES TO ORAL HEALTH (2011)

Studies || Avocado Oil on the Skin + Collagen and Wounds

Avocado oil is a fairly popular oil used in the natural hair community.  It is great for sealing in moisture and enhancing conditioners.

But what about avocado oil on the skin?  Well, a few studies have demonstrated that this oil can increase soluble collagen (when consumed) AND help to heal wounds better than petroleum jelly (when applied topically).  Check out the abstracts below:

SOURCES:
AVOCADO OIL ON SKIN COLLAGEN METABOLISM (1991)
EFFECT OF AVOCADO OIL ON WOUND HEALING (2013)

Mixology || Egg Oil and Amla Hair Serum with Argan Oil, Etc.

Are you interested in mixing your own hair serum?

This recipe originates from The Natural Beauty Workshop:

Ingredients 
1/2 ounce Egg Oil
1/2 ounce Amla Oil
1/2 ounce Argan Oil
1/2 ounce Broccoli Seed Oil
1/4 ounce Jojoba
10-20 drops Rosemary Essential Oil

Directions 
Combine the oils in a small beaker and stir well. Add the essential oil, then stir again. Transfer carefully to a dropper bottle.

For more details and where to purchase the ingredients, check out The Natural Beauty Workshop.

My Top 4 Favorite Hair and Body Oils!

Coconut oil.
I use it to pre-poo and in my shea butter mix.  It helps to protect my hair against damage and dryness from washing.  It also helps to minimize breakage (during manipulation).

Safflower oil.
Very inexpensive yet effective.  I use it in my shea butter mix and on my elbows and knees.  I also use it to moisturize my face at night before bed.  It helps to keep my skin and hair smooth.

Olive oil.
I use this in my shea butter mix and have used it mixed with conditioners.  It enhances the moisturizing/sealing properties of the mixture.  I also love this oil for cooking since it is a healthier option than many other oils.

Grapeseed oil.
I use this in my shea butter mix and on my face (at night) during the winter.  It protects against moisture loss.

Study || Grapeseed Oil and Removal of Sun-Induced Hyperpigmentation?

When the summer hits, my face begins to tan more quickly than the rest of my body (because it is more exposed).  I usually do not have a problem with this tanning variation except when it comes to matching foundation or wearing low-cut tops that reveal a less tanned complexion from the neck down.   I've learned to deal with it since it is only temporary, and during some summers, the tan does balance out over time.

Nevertheless, I stumbled upon this interesting study (while researching grapeseed oil) that demonstrated lightening effects on UV-induced hyperpigmentation (i.e., a tan) after topical application of linoleic acid.  Since grapeseed oil contains a large amount of linoleic acid, it makes you wonder if it would have that effect?  Maybe you can do your own personal experiment or research.

SOURCE:
ABSTRACT ON LINOLEIC ACID LIGHTENS UV-INDUCE HYPERPIGMENTATION (1998)

Mixology || Making Your Own Carrot Oil

LOO'S NOTE: When making carrot oil from scratch, you will find that you are using a lot of carrots to make a small amount of oil.  The beauty of the below recipe is that the addition of an oil to your process makes the creation easier and increases your yield, though it is obviously a mix of carrot oil and the oil you chose.  A similar process can be applied to make coconut oil and avocado oil.  

RECIPE SOURCE

Supplies Needed

• Veggie peeler
• Hand grater or food processor
• Crock pot
• Fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth
• Glass mason jar

Ingredients

-2 organically or home grown carrots
-olive, coconut, sunflower, or sesame oil, to cover

Method

1. Wash and peel the skin of the carrots.
2. Grate carrots with the use of a hand grater or food processor.
3. Place the grated carrots in a crock pot and pour the oil of your choice to cover. Note: I used 2 1/4 cups of oil or 18 ounces.
4. On your crock pot’s lowest setting, maintain a warm temperature — infusing the oil for a full 24-72 hours. Note: I use the “warm” temperature setting on my crock pot. Try not to allow the temperature of the oil to rise above 100-105 degrees farenheit. You will notice the oil becoming orange in color.
5. Once the infusion process is complete, pour the carrots and oil mixture through a fine mesh strainer or cheesecloth and strain.
6. Reserve the oil and compost the carrots.
7. Label and store the oil in a glass mason jar in the refrigerator until ready for use. Will keep for 6-8 months if stored properly.

For more recipes like this, check out Frugally Sustainable.

Underrated || Babassu Oil for Hair and Skin

Like coconut oil, babassu oil is extracted from a kernel of the palm tree family – the babassu tree, to be exact.  More importantly, it has similar composition and proportions of fatty acids as coconut oil.  (The fatty acids include lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, and oleic.) If you desire some the benefits of coconut oil but (for whatever reason) dislike the actual oil, you might want to continue reading ... 

WHY BABASSU OIL IS WORTH TRYING:

1.  It is less/non-clogging.  One downside to using coconut oil is that it is high on the comedogenic scale.  Babassu oil, on the other hand, is supposedly not as clogging (if clogging at all).  If you are prone to getting acne from coconut oil use, try this babassu instead.  

2. It does not leave a greasy feel.  Unlike coconut oil, babassu oil lacks a greasy feel after application. Some even say that it appears to penetrate better than coconut oil.

3. It is not expensive.  Depending on where you make your purchase, babassu oil is comparable in price to coconut oil.

HOW TO USE BABASSU OIL:

1. Use it to seal your ends.  After a fresh wash and condition, apply a little bit of the oil to your ends.  A little goes a long way.

2. Use as a pre-shampoo treatment or to enhance a conditioner.  Use babassu alone or with other ingredients as an overnight pre-poo treatment.  Add some melted babassu oil to your conditioner for an enhanced conditioning treatment.

3. Use it to whip shea butter.  Mix a little babassu oil with shea butter (and other oils, if you wish). 

Underrated || Grapefruit Essential Oil for Hair

DISCLAIMER: Essential oils are very potent. Please consult your doctor before using them, especially if you are pregnant, breast feeding, or have a medical condition.

First off, grapefruit essential oil should not be confused with grapeseed oil.  The former is an essential oil and pressed from the grapefruit.  The latter is a carrier oil and pressed from the seeds of grapes.  Grapeseed oil is growing in popularity in hair care, but grapefruit essential oil is relatively less known.  Now for why this particular essential oil is underrated ...

WHY GRAPEFRUIT ESSENTIAL OIL IS GREAT:

1.  It has a sweet, light fragrance.  While peppermint essential oil can be a bit strong in aroma and lavender a bit weak, on this scale, grapefruit essential oil sits relatively close to lavender.  Grapefruit is almost in the realm of lemongrass essential oil, but weaker and much sweeter in terms of scent.  

2.  It blends well with other essential oils.  Grapefruit essential oil can be mixed with many other essential oils to create interesting blends.  It blends especially well with lavender essential oil.  Some also state that grapefruit blends really well with the essential oils of bergamot and basil.

HOW TO USE GRAPEFRUIT ESSENTIAL OIL:

1. As a hair deodorizer/perfume.  Add several drops of grapefruit essential oil to a few ounces of water in a spray bottle.  Spritz your hair and scalp to hold off on wash day a bit longer.  Grapefruit essential oil has the right intensity of aroma to leave your hair smelling fresh and sweet without being overpowering.

2. As a moisturizer fragrance.  Add several drops of this essential oil to give your moisturizer a sweet, citrusy scent that is subtle.

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Underrated || Safflower Oil for Hair and Skin

Many women use olive oil, coconut oil, and even jojoba oil on their hair in some fashion, but few use or know about safflower oil.

WHY SAFFLOWER OIL IS GREAT:

1.  It is inexpensive.  Compared to your more popular hair oils, this one is fairly inexpensive.  Depending on where you purchase safflower oil, it can cost almost 20-50% less than extra virgin olive oil or extra virgin coconut oil.

2.  It is very moisturizing.  The safflower oil sold for cooking purposes is generally high in oleic acid, which is a fatty acid that possesses conditioning and moisturizing properties.

3.  It is fairly light.  The consistency of safflower oil is somewhere between that of jojoba oil and olive oil, and somewhat similar to grapeseed oil.  Thus, if you find olive oil to be too heavy and jojoba oil to be too light, safflower oil may be worth a try.


HOW TO USE SAFFLOWER OIL:

1. As a sealant.  Depending on your hair, safflower oil may work just fine as a sealant after a good wash and deep condition.  I used to use this oil as a sealant during humid weather when my hair didn't require a heavy product.

2. To enhance a moisturizer.  This oil can be use to enhance your current moisturizer.  It works really well in whipped butters.

3.  To enhance a lotion.  Yes, it can be used on the skin too!  You can add this oil to your body lotion or facial moisturizer.

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