Winter Healthy Hair Tip || Retaining Moisture During Washes

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Switch out every other shampoo for a co-wash.  Doing this will help to remove some of the gunk without stripping your hair dry.

Don't like to co-wash?  Here are some other options:

• Use a cleansing conditioner, which is designed to clean the hair better than a regular conditioner.
• Apply conditioner to your strands and only shampoo your scalp.  This way your ends are protected from moisture loss.
• Pre-poo with an oil and/conditioner.
• Use a mud wash or clay. 

How to Avoid "Hand-in-The-Hair" Disease

Some of you probably know the definition of "hand-in-the-hair" disease, but for those of you who do not, it is essentially the following:

(Definition by Loo) A severe case of frequent touching, twirling, pulling (or any other form of manipulation) of the hair, especially the ends.

It is not an actual disease but a phrase coined in the hair care world for this bad habit.

For years, I have had this bad habit, which oddly enough, developed when I first went natural.  (I believe the reason is because my kinks and coils were -- and still are -- new to me.)  However, the following tips have helped me to curb the habit for the most part.  If you suffer from "hand-in-hair-disease", you may want to try these techniques to "treat" it:

For longer hair - Wear pinned updos or buns
These styles will make it difficult for you to keep your hands in your hair since your hair is ... well ...  tucked away.

For shorter hair - Wear twist/braid extensions or a beanie 
Like the above styles, these ones will make it difficult to reach your actual hair.

Wear a bonnet or scarf while at home
After a long day, you may want to let your hair down or take off that beanie, and this is understandable.    Give yourself about ten to twenty minutes of "free" time then put on that satin bonnet or scarf.

Occupy your hands with another object
This is my least useful avoidance technique, but when I do use it I find that pliable objects (like an ouchless band) work nicely.

When The Satin Bonnet (or Scarf) Is Not Enough

You have heard it before ... "Make sure you sleep with a satin scarf or bonnet to protect your hair while you sleep."  Well, have you ever awaken in the morning with the scarf or bonnet on the other side of the bed or with the moisture sucked out of your hair in spite of wearing one?  If so, you are not alone.

So, just how can you protect your strands and retain moisture at night when the satin scarf or bonnet is not enough?  Here are a few ideas:

1. For added protection, sleep on a satin pillowcase.  If your scarf or bonnet happens to slip off at night, your satin pillowcase will become the next line of protection against dry, frizzy, snagged hair.  Even if your scarf or bonnet stays on at night, sleeping on a satin pillowcase on top of that can do wonders for retaining moisture in your hair at night.

2. Purchase a better quality satin scarf or adjustable bonnet.  Not all satin scarves and bonnets are created equal.  Some are constructed from very thin and poor quality fabrics and threads.  What is considered a good quality satin? Well, first let me explain that the word "satin" is used to describe the type of weave.  There are "satin" polyesters and "satin" silks, for example.  Among the polyesters, "charmeuse satin" (or, sometimes called "satin charmeuse") is a smoother, better quality weave for the hair.  Purchasing a "charmeuse satin" scarf or bonnet is a good investment.  Also, look for adjustable bonnets (as opposed to purely elastic ones) for better stay at night.

3. Better yet, get a silk scarf or silk adjustable bonnet.  If you can afford to do so, silk is a much better material for the hair than polyester.  When searching for silk scarves or bonnets, look for those that say "charmeuse satin" (or, sometimes called "satin charmeuse").  This type of weave is the most luxurious of all the weaves.  Again, look for adjustable bonnets (as opposed to purely elastic ones) for better stay at night.

4. If you suffer from dry hair, turn on the humidifier.  The humidifier can provide extra vapor in the air thus creating a moisturizing environment for your hair while you sleep.

The Basics to CHANGING a Hair Care Regimen || Part II

Last month, I discussed Part I of this short series.  Here is the second and final part:

Understand the pros and cons of what is it you want to incorporate into your regimen.  Do you want to incorporate heat usage?  Do want to use conditioners containing silicones?  Then make certain you research the pros and cons of such practices.  Without understanding all aspects of what it is you want to incorporate into your regimen, such adjustments can adversely surprise you ... and your hair.

Start with one adjustment.  Making multiple changes to your regimen at once can make it difficult to identify the culprit if setbacks happen.  This step especially applies to newbies in their hair care journey.

Try your new product more than once and in various ways.  Products that fail to work the first time or via one method make work the second or third time and via another method.  I have had this experience with such products as coconut oil, shea butter, and certain conditioners.  While coconut oil fails to moisturize or seal my hair after a fresh wash, it is actually moisturizing when I use it as a pre-poo or mixed with shea butter as a sealant.  While shea butter alone does nothing for my hair, it works very well when mixed with oils and even aloe vera gel.

The Basics to CHANGING a Hair Care Regimen || Part I

As we reach new lengths, sometimes our hair care regimens must change.  Our strands -- which may not only be longer now, but may also have changed slightly in coil/curl pattern -- may require different handling methods and products.  A change in our regimen may also be necessary when the ingredients listing on a staple product has been altered, our income has been adjusted, or the weather has varied significantly.  Whatever the reason for a change, it can be scary going from a familiar routine to a new one.  Let these quick tips be a guide and keep your fear at bay:

Look at what others with similar hair length, type, texture, AND density are doing.  It is not enough to just look at women with a similar hair type to yours.  Look for those with your length (or a length to which you aspire), texture (that is, fine, medium, or coarse strands - a measure of circumference), and density (that is, the number of strands on your head).  Use women with two to all four of these characteristics as a starting point for adjusting your routine. 

Find products with ingredients your hair loves.  This step is especially applicable if your staple product has new ingredients, is discontinued, or is now out of your budget.  Begin your search for a replacement by looking for a similar ingredients listings to your original staple product.  Look for generics - some of which may be carried at Sally's Beauty Supply (for U.S. readers) - for example, "Hair One" in place of "Wen".  Another option is to consider becoming a mixtress (that is, mixing your own product).

Use thicker, heavier products during colder weather.  Products that work just fine during the warmer months may lose their effectiveness in the colder months.  It may be necessary to incorporate or switch to heavier oils, conditioners, and butters.  They will better protect your strands and retain moisture in your hair during this time.

To be continued ...

Minimal-Damage Heat Regimen for Healthy Hair

So you are interested in using heat -- be it blow-drying or flat-ironing -- but you are terrified of destroying your healthy hair.  Too many horror stories about split ends and permanently straight strands resulting from heat usage.  Fear of losing the progress you worked so long to achieve.

The truth of the matter is that heat usage does not have to be so scary as long as you know your hair and know its limits.  Additionally, a high-moisture, high-strength, moderate-heat routine is necessary to minimize damage.  The regimen below is a good starting point for those who are ready to incorporate heat styling into their hair care.  However, if you can answer yes to any of the following questions, then I encourage you leave heat usage alone for now: Is your hair currently damaged?  Is your hair brittle or weak?  Is your hair newly colored or bleached?

PREPARING FOR HEAT USAGE:

Wash with a moisturizing shampoo.
With a heat-styling regimen, it is really important to maintain moisturized strands, even during the washing process.  Use of a drying shampoo will translate into more effort spent afterwards restoring moisture to your hair.  On the other hand, use of a moisturizing shampoo will help to lightly condition and moisturize your hair during the washing process.  Shampoos like these usually contain mild (rather than harsh) cleansing agents AND light conditioning ingredients.
Recommendations:  Elucence Moisture Benefits Shampoo, Creme of Nature Argan Oil Moisture and Shine Shampoo

Deep condition with a moisturizing protein conditioner.
Following up with a deep protein conditioner is essential to reinforce the hair shaft for manipulation and heat usage.  However, for those who are protein sensitive or have issues with protein-moisture balance, finding the right deep protein conditioner can be a challenge.  A great option is to try a deep conditioner with the dual role of strengthening (protein) and moisturizing.  Such conditioners will generally contain a hydrolyzed protein (e.g., keratin, collagen) for reinforcement and humectants (e.g, glycerin) for moisture retention.
Recommendations: Organic Root Stimulator Replenishing Pak

Quick condition with a silicone-based conditioner (optional).
This step is ideal for those who desire strands that are more manageable (e.g., easier combing, less tangly) and smoother for heat styling.  Also, if your hair is too hard after the above deep conditioning step, this quick condition will help to soften it.
Recommendations: Most Tresemme and Pantene conditioners

Moisturize with a light water-based product and then seal. (No humectants.)
This is your final moisturizing step prior to applying heat to your hair.  You can simply apply a good oil/butter-based sealant to your damp, conditioned hair or after applying a light water-based moisturizer.  Avoid products with humectants in order to delay reversion and frizz.  Also, avoid overly heavy products which can contribute to buildup.
Moisture recommendations: water, Oyin Hair Dew, KBB's Super Silky Leave-In Conditioner
Sealant recommendations: homemade whipped butter, Oyin Whipped Butter


IF FLAT IRONING:

Airdry in big braids.
Air dry your hair as opposed to blow drying to minimize your heat usage.  Doing so in big braids will stretch the hair better than twists though it will also take longer.

Apply a silicone-based heat protectant.

A good heat protectant will usually contain silicones, such as dimethicone or cyclomethicone, which are the most effective at inhibiting damage.  Applying a heat protectant is necessary to reduce the rate at which heat travels through the hair.  Be sure to apply a sufficient amount and section by section.

Recommendations: Carol's Daughter Macademia, Proclaim Glossing Polish Color and Heat Protection, CHI Silk Infusion

Flat iron using a moderate temperature and no more than two passes.

Read this post on "The Natural Haven" for information on the temperature profile for human hair.  If you do use a setting above 300 degrees F, try not to go above 350 F.  Also, invest in a quality flat iron so that little effort (including minimal passes) is required to achieve the look for which you are aiming.  Also, find one with a temperature dial so that you can control the heat level.


IF BLOW-DRYING:

Apply a silicone-based heat protectant.

A good heat protectant will usually contain silicones, such as dimethicone or cyclomethicone, which are the most effective at inhibiting damage.  Applying a heat protectant is necessary to reduce the rate at which heat travels through the hair.  Be sure to apply a sufficient amount and section by section.

Recommendations: Carol's Daughter Macademia, Proclaim Glossing Polish Color and Heat Protection, CHI Silk Infusion

Blow dry using the tension method (no combs or brushes).
Read more (and view tutorials) about it in this earlier post.  Also, it is less damaging to blow dry on damp hair rather than sopping wet hair.  Investing in one with a diffuser is ideal to evenly distribute the heat across your hair.


HOW OFTEN?

Alternate between your heat-styling routine and no-heat styles.
Wear your straight hair for 2-3 weeks and then air dried no-heat styles (e.g., twists, buns, braids, roller set) the rest of the time.  Whether you choose to wear heat-styled looks twice a year or twelve times a year is up to you and your preference.  However, the lower your frequency of heat usage, the better your hair will fair in the long run.

Loc Maintenance || Tips for Loose Hair and Frizzy Locs

Youtubers Franchesca and DynamicRunner use the following technique to tame loose hair and frizzy locs:

 

Summer Hair Care || Battling the Humidity

Summer is officially here and so is the humidity in certain regions of the world.  What does this mean for those who are stretching, transitioning, or natural?  Well, it could mean reversion, shrinkage, and frizz.  However, you can mitigate each of these unwanted effects by following the tips below:

1. Protective Style.  In my relaxed, transitioning, and now natural days, protective styling has been the number one weapon against summer humidity.  My go-to protective styles were and still are twists or braids because reversion, shrinkage, and frizz are minimized.

2. Work with your texture. Some ladies enjoy wearing their hair out during the summer, especially if they've spent the rest of the year in protective styles.  However, wearing the hair out can be an invitation to the unwanted effects of humidity.  One way to minimize those effects is to "work with your texture" via braidouts, twistouts, straw sets, or rod sets.  These styles are less likely to be ruined by the humidity than straighter styles (e.g., a fresh press) that are further from your actual texture.
-Tutorials on the strawset and cornrow-out
-Tips for maintaining twistouts

3. Embrace your texture.  Another way to combat humidity while wearing your hair loose is to simply "embrace your texture".  What does this mean?  It means wearing your hair in its natural state (e.g., a wash-n-go).  However, those with medium to long hair, especially those with kinks or tighter coils, should proceed with caution.  Wash-n-gos can create an environment conducive to tangles.  If you do have medium to long, Type 4 hair and would like to experiment with, read my earlier post on the Curly Girl Method on Type 4s.

4. Run from humectant-containing moisturizers.  Humectants (e.g., glycerin, propylene glycol, sorbitol) draw moisture from the air.  When applied to the hair which is then exposed to humidity, humectants will facilitate the processes of reversion, shrinkage, and frizz.  However, if your hair absolutely needs these ingredients in a moisturizer, then do not change your routine.  It is better to put healthy hair care before an anti-humidity technique any day.
-List of more humectants

5. Use a shine/smoothing serum.  If your hair fairs fine with silicones, then using a serum containing dimethicone is another method for battling the summer humidity.  Apply the serum to a fresh set of twists or braids or onto your out style (e.g., twistout or braidout).  Dimethicone will not only aid in taming any frizzies, but it will create a slight barrier against humidity.  NOTE: Because this silicone does not dissolve in water, it can lead to buildup with continued use.  Be sure to wash your hair with a shampoo containing any of the following surfactants in order to prevent this buildup: SLS, SLES, cocamidopropyl betaine, cocobetaine, ALS, or ALES (Source).


6. Wear a scarf.  Hair scarves are very much the trend this summer, and they can be useful for disguising hair that has suffered the effects of humidity.  Opt for silk or polyester (i.e., satin) scarves, which are both gentler on the hair than cotton.

For previous posts on summer hair & skin care:

Black Skin and Sunscreen

Chlorine and Summer Hair

Hair and Sun Damage

Type 4 Series: Curly Girl Method & Summer Hair

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Healthy Styles for Transitioning or Stretching Relaxers

Are you transitioning from relaxed or texturized to natural ... or stretching your relaxers for a long period of time?  Do you want to minimize heat usage during this period?  Well, below are some styles you can wear to disguise the texture difference between your new growth and chemically straightened ends.  None of the styles require direct heat; in some cases, one can just airdry or sit under a hooded dryer.  Enjoy!

The Strawset: VIDEO TUTORIAL (PART I) (best done on damp hair), PART II

The Cornrow-Out: VIDEO TUTORIAL (PART I),  PART II

The Rollerset + Saran Wrap: VIDEO TUTORIAL

The Wig: VIDEO TUTORIAL

The Braid/Twist Extensions: VIDEO TUTORIAL

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Winterize Your Regimen!

With winter around the corner, here are a couple of ways to "winterize" your hair and skin care regimens:

Hair:
Winterize Your Washes!
Winterize Your Conditioner!
Winterize Your Moisturizer!
Winterize Your Style!

Skin:
Winterize Your Moisturizer!