Healthy Hair on Youtube: Kasheera

I stumbled upon youtuber Kasheera while searching for new naturals to which to subscribe.  Her journey exemplifies length retention at its finest.  In just three years since she started growing out her relaxer, she has retained a maximum of 14 inches of growth!  I'm eager to see where she will be next year and the years to come.

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Free Range Chicken vs. Natural Chicken: Is the Difference Worth It?

Chicken is big part of my diet.  To put it simply, about 60 percent of the meat that I eat is poultry while the remaining 40 percent is split between salmon (about 30) and other meat (the other 10 percent).  That being said, I want to buy the freshest, purest chicken possible ... which is next to impossible ... or is it?

Normally, when I go to purchase chicken at the grocery store, I look for labels that say "natural", "no antibiotics", "no added hormones", and other indicators of minimally-altered poultry.  In particular, I usually pick up the following brand and label at my local market:

Natural chicken. No antibiotics, no added hormones, 100% vegetarian diet, raised cage free.

Now, last week, the store apparently introduced a new labeling for "free range, USDA Organic" chicken.  I immediately substituted that poultry in place of the one I usually purchase because the "free range" and "USDA Organic" labeling are the ultimate indicators of the least-tampered-with chicken ... or are they?

Organic, free range chicken.  No antibiotics, no added hormones, organic vegetarian feed, no preservatives.

I will admit that I want to do more research on just what exactly I am putting into my body when I'm buying my usual "natural" chicken versus this "organic" and "free range" chicken versus just "free range" chicken.  In the mean time, I will leave you all with this snippet from Wiki (not exactly the best place to do research, but it will suffice as an intro to the topic of "free range").

"Free range is a term which outside of the United States denotes a method of farming husbandry where the animals are allowed to roam freely instead of being contained in any manner.  In the United States, USDA regulations apply only to poultry and indicate that the animal has been allowed access to the outside. The USDA regulations do not specify the quality or size of the outside range nor the duration of time an animal must have access to the outside." - Wiki

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Onei Beauty Discount Code for HHB Readers

Use the product code "HHB40" to receive 40% off of your order from www.oneibeauty.com.  The company offers many products including the MK-I Halo Ceramic straightener (seen below).  This flat iron straightens just as well as my GHD, has a temperature dial (which the GHD doesn't), and is less expensive.  A full review will be coming soon, but don't wait to use the discount code above.  Feel free to spread the word and the code!

Hair Diary || Twistout and More Twists

This will be a monthly series in which I discuss my hair journey from now through my 5-year nappiversary in February 2013.

See what had happened was ... the twistout, which was only supposed to be worn for one weekend, ended up living for two.  Sometimes I get too busy OR lazy to face wash-and-detangle day ...

Twistout after one week.

When I finally braved the task at hand, fortunately my hair was still fairly "detangled" from being in a defined week-old twistout.  I put my hair in 8 big braids, pre-pooed, washed, conditioned, and then comb-detangled.  Then I rinsed out the conditioner, and airdried my hair until somewhere between damp and dry.  After that, I went into my usual twists.  I'll keep this set for two, if not three weeks.

New twists to be worn for 2-3 weeks.

Until next time!

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"Soul" Food Mondays || Enduring the Wilderness

What is the "wilderness"?  It is generally a period in life when one is stripped of one or more relationships and forced into isolation to reflect and/or renew before restoration or advancement.  The husband leaves you for another woman.  The friend abandons you.  You unwillingly but, out of necessity, dump your boyfriend.  Or a new career takes you thousands of miles away from your family and friends into the middle of nowhere.  At the end of it all, you find yourself alone - in the wilderness.

What one accomplishes (or does not accomplish) in this period is vital to whether one exits or stays ... or enters another wilderness a short time later.  Does the individual learn during that period?  Does the individual mature?  Did the individual shed his/her bad habits?  Did he or she gain valuable life lessons?  These are just a few of the questions that may be worked out in the wilderness.

Do you want to see fruitful land again?  Then endure the wilderness.  Allow it to shape you and teach you.

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DIY Hair Care: What Ingredients and When?

When it comes to hair care, it is vital (yes, vital) to know how certain ingredients work on our strands.  Having this knowledge reduces the "trial and error" involved in both building and adjusting a hair care regimen.

Below is a quick guide for the more popular, natural ingredients (with the exception of a couple) involved in DIY hair care.  Do keep in mind that what works for most individuals may (or may not) work for you.

When you want to take advantage of the humidity:
Glycerin, honey
Why: Humectants (moisture retention).
How to use: Add to a moisturizer or a leave-in.

When you want an oil-based sealant:

Soybean oil, grapeseed oil, castor oil, avocado oil

Why: These oils can reduce moisture loss.

How to use: Use separately or add some to your moisturizer.

When you want a light sealant:

Jojoba oil, grapeseed oil

Why: Light compared to other oils (jojoba being the lighter of the two).

How to use: Use separately or add some to your moisturizer.

When you want a heavy sealant:

Olive oil, shea butter (melted)

Why: Olive oil is one of the heavier oils.  Many butters (such as shea) contain fatty acids like oils but are heavier than oils.

How to use: Use separately or add some to your moisturizer.

When your scalp is itchy:

Tea tree essential oil, aloe vera juice

Why: Some find either of these substances to be soothing to the skin.

How to use: (Tea tree) Use a few drops with water or a carrier oil.  (Aloe vera) Use straight or mix with water. NOTE: If you are pregnant or have a health condition, please consult your doctor before using essential oils.

When your scalp is dry:

Jojoba oil, aloe vera juice

Why: Jojoba oil is a light oil (non-heavy).  Aloe vera juice is light, moisturizing, and soothing to the skin.

How to use: (Jojoba) Massage a few drops into the scalp.  (Aloe vera) Use straight or mix with water.

When you want a moisturizing or softening oil:

Grapeseed oil, safflower oil, castor oil

Why: These oils tend to leave the hair feeling soft and moist.

How to use: Use separately or add some to your moisturizer.

When you want a moisturizing or softening non-oil:

Glycerin, aloe vera gel/juice, rosewater, honey, water

Why: Glycerin and honey are humectants (good for moisture retention).  Aloe vera gel/juice and rosewater are moisturizing.  Water is the best natural form of hydration.

How to use: Use separately, add to your moisturizer, or mix one (or more) ingredients to create a moisturizing spritz.  NOTE: Adding water, aloe vera juice, or rosewater to a whipped butter can create an environment for bacterial and/or fungal growth.

When you want shine or sheen:

Castor oil, coconut oil, avocado oil, apple cider vinegar

Why: Castor oil has been shown to impart sheen (see earlier post).  Coconut oil and avocado oil are ones that many women swear by.  Due to its pH level, apple cider vinegar may help to flatten the cuticles, thus allowing for more shine or sheen.

How to use: (Castor, coconut, avocado) Use separately or add some to your moisturizer. (Apple cider vinegar) Use as a post-wash rinse with cold water for 5 minutes.

When your shampoo is drying:
Coconut oil, olive oil
Why: Moisturizing and lubricating.
How to use: Pre-poo with any of the above oils or add to shampoo.

When your shampoo is not cleansing enough:
Baking soda
Why: Easily lifts oils and dirt.
How to use: Mix a little with your shampoo. (Be sure to follow up with an apple cider vinegar rinse.)

When you want more slip in your conditioner:
Shea butter (melted), coconut oil, olive oil
Why: Lubricating.
How to use: Add some to your conditioner.

When you want a more moisturizing conditioner:
Glycerin, honey, shea butter (melted)
Why: (glycerin, honey) moisture retention; (shea butter) emollient.
How to use: Add some to your conditioner.

When you want a more strengthening conditioner:
Coconut oil, hydrolyzed protein (e.g. keratin, collagen), egg
Why: Coconut oil has been shown to penetrate the hair and reduce keratin loss (abstract).  Hydrolyzed protein penetrates the hair and provides reinforcement by replacing lost keratin.  The egg contains protein (though too big to penetrate our strands) and is an ingredient that some women swear by.  For maximum strengthening, go for conditioners containing hydrolyzed protein.
How to use: (Coconut oil) Best used as a pre-poo to minimize breakage, but may also use post-wash.  (Egg) Add to your conditioner.  (Hydrolyzed protein) Find a commercial conditioner with this ingredient.

When you want more hold and definition:

Shea butter, mango butter, beeswax, aloe vera gel, flaxseed gel

How to use: Add some to your moisturizer or use separately.  (Mango provides more hold than shea butter.)

When you want a lighter, less oil-based whipped butter (e.g., warm weather):

Aloe vera gel, jojoba oil

Why: moisturizing, but light

How to use: Mix a 1:1 shea butter and aloe vera gel mixture (or a variation of this recipe).

When you want a heavier, more oil-based whipped butter (e.g., cold weather):

Olive oil, coconut oil, grapeseed oil, safflower oil, castor oil

Why: moisturizing and sealing

How to use: Mix a 1:1 or 2:1 shea butter and oil(s) mixture.

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Oldies, But Goodies

1. Raw Food Diet: The Basics
2. Twist Series: Long Lasting Twists
3. "Soul" Food: Put A Period on Your Past
4. Healthy Hair Feature: Lina
5. Review: CD's Macademia Heat Protection Serum
6. Salmon ... Choose Wisely: Wild vs. Farmed

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